PFW | Autumn Winter 17 | Day 6
| Balenciaga |
There's an even newer way to wear your coat: one side yanked up, pulled across the chest and fastened at the opposite shoulder. Balenciaga show was a whole lot more than the new directive on how to wear a coat. Cool and elegant in equal measures, and with so many have-to-buy items, Demna Gvasalia sent out his best collection yet.
Several looks were fused together, like a black leather trench, which looked simple enough from the front but turned into a pencil skirt from behind. In fact, there was a lot to discover from the back; prim silk blouses had backs crafted from quilted leather biker jackets, or otherwise had Balenciaga branded car mats attached to the back like a cape. There was so much to feast on, right down to smaller details like the detached wing mirrors which were fashioned into evening bags.
And if that wasn't enough to delight the senses then came the finale ballgowns which were nothing short of breath-taking. Each creation was sent out with matching Bazar bags, but blown up to suitcase scale.
| Céline |
Phoebe Philo explored looks for many different women with the pacing of strangers passing on the street. For fall, she seemed to magnify these ideas.
The models walked seemingly at random, taking meandering laps around the runway, while the audience watched on bleachers that slowly rotated, completing one full 360-degree turn just as the show ended. It was intentionally disorienting, leaving you wondering if you would get to see everything — you did, several times, from all different angles, though you never got a good look at any one thing for long.
Confident, distinctive women walked with purpose, coming and going, purportedly from different circumstances but sharing a taste for classic luxury that has been advanced and individualized with a quirky cut, proportion, color or print. There was a sense of cosmopolitan practicality and versatility.
| Valentino |
Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli started his fall design process by mulling over the question of what is new today? It’s fashion’s job to salvage that blunt reality by reimagining the not new into that which is gloriously so, which at its best awes and even inspires. “It’s new when you see things that you already know, and you connect them in a different way.” - Picciolo
Piccioli makes us rethink romanticism as aspirational grail rather than reactionary folly, at least as much as such a thought can manifest in fashion.
Yet Piccioli understands the need for forward motion, and that, no matter how enticing the Valentino world of Renaissance-worthy damsels done up in exquisitely decorated silks, today’s women also have to dress for day, which he made the focus of his collection.