PFW | Autumn Winter 17 | Day 3
| Chloe |
Clare Waight Keller provided a sense of escapism through fashion. “It’s not political, but it’s where people go when they feel a lot of what’s going on in the culture now. They look for escapism.” - Waight Keller
One thing the designer definitely wanted to escape: a retrospective approach. To that end, she tempered her penchant for flou, along the way sacrificing the Chloé girl boho allure that she has worked so deftly in the past. In its place: little dresses cut short and straight in a late-Sixties vein. As for the tailoring, it looked strong: amply cut jackets and short coats in meaty fabrics and shearling, and a new pants silhouette, full-cut from a low-slung waist, in separates and jumpsuit versions.
| Manish Arora |
Manish Arora offered up a veritable firework display in celebration of his psychedelic label’s 10th anniversary. His “Cosmic Love” collection for fall was a heavily adorned explosion of contrasting textures, patchworks and motifs that contrasted African tribal references with a celestial theme. Pyrotechnics, planets and shooting stars were printed or embroidered onto sweatshirts, coats and dresses and counterposed with zebra-like and geometric patterns -patch-worked in denim and boiled wool respectively and diamond-shaped Aztec designs with a Seventies flavor.
| Ann Demeulemeester |
The Ann Demeulemeester muse this season was a wannabe bride, with a rigid veil strapped to her head, offsetting her pale mien and ruby-stained lips. There was a sense of freedom to the collection’s flowing silhouettes with their trailing straps; a new sportswear direction and some nice volume plays added a fresh edge. The designer layered a cropped black sweatshirt over a billowing, prairie-girl white cotton dress, and revisited baggies in gauzy lace or deep-purple crushed velvet.
| Paco Rabanne |
Cozy is not a word that brings Paco Rabanne to mind. Julien Dossena has caught on that women don’t really want experimental un-wearability. “I really wanted to clean shop on the clothes in general,” adding that a satin palette and the “coziness effect” were key to the fall collection. “It was how to make things really body-conscious but have soft comfort.”
Languid knits opened the show, a bottle-green apron top with long uneven panels that slinked over a swishy, clingy skirt, followed by a similar oatmeal colored shirt and skirt. Dossena quickly dove into metallics, one of the show’s key statements, with slinky silver and gold mesh and chain mail-draped tops and asymmetric skirts gleaming in the brilliant white light of the stark set. Loose and unrestricted, they poured over the body in a sensual, feminine way.
| Balmain |
Olivier Rousteing conjured a modern-day Amazon with raw pelts and elaborate patchworks.
“I am woman, hear me roar.”
This season, his glamazons came decked out raw pelts with a stitched-together feel. Kendall Jenner looked particularly fierce in a black dress assembled from crocodile skins, a tribal-looking metallic lip ring tracing a gleaming line across her mouth. Other options included a shaggy shearling sleeveless coat, or a tunic top pieced together from panels of glossy ponyskin.
“It’s all about a return to the forces of nature. I wanted to create strong Amazons. Women’s power today is extremely important, and I think I reflect that with this collection. It’s very feminist,” - Roustein - Not surprisingly, his vision of feminism was not of the pink pussy hat variety.
| Isabel Marant |
Isabel Marant's fall collection had a strong Eighties bent that folded in boho, folkloric touches. Boho power dressers, eat your heart out. Isabel Marant, in this fun twist on her universe, went full-on Eighties, with a casualness and bohemian flavor, folding in crafty, folkloric touches.
The collection was plumped with classic Marant staples, with great use of quilting, her first love on velvet tops and jackets, and updates on her signature oversize tailored jackets, cinched with wide suede belts, which kept the look light, feminine and fluid.
New directions included long skirts, a pragmatic move on Marant’s part with a run of pretty floral plissé dresses worn over high boots. “It’s this idea of how you want to wear clothes in winter, having longer lengths and still being sexy, but feeling cozy and comfy in your clothes,” - Marant