PFW | Autumn Winter 17 | Day 1
| Vera Wang |
Vera Wang released her fall collection, it was no surprise that the lineup was largely inspired by French history, specifically Napoleon and Josephine. Wang intertwined their personal history and signature fashion with military references; Empire waist gowns and her own.
“It was Paris from the start that formed me, embraced me and ultimately saved me.” Vera Wang
The clothes themselves offered a more light-handed interpretation of the intermingling of French influence and Wang’s gothic romance. She melded men’s military references with gowns in interesting ways, for example, a black wool bandeau from which fell a gray tulle skirt with black embroidered feathers, and a fluid gold lame Empire gown with off-the-shoulder wool tweed sleeves. Gold and black painted feather embroideries nodded to a balletic “Black Swan” vibe.
| Olivier Theyskens |
Olivier Theyskens traded the lavish ballgowns that closed his show last season for a more grounded wardrobe rooted in daywear. “I did some drawings of them and I killed them early, actually. I wasn’t feeling it, because I wanted that girl to be, like, contrasting with this place." - Olivier Theyskens
The designer veered between short and long hemlines, alternating dresses with flippy mini skirts with belted maxi trenchcoats worn with extra-wide pants that swallowed the feet. A form-fitting tartan-patterned sweater dress, layered over a filmy floor-length skirt, suggested a compromise approach.
| Saint Laurent |
Looking chic is the furthest thing from the mind of this Saint Laurent. The grail here is delivery of an aggressive cool of the sort that dares you not to get it.
Such clothes were in-your-face fashion, pulsing with sexy attitude, the runway bait. They validated part two of the Saint Laurent dare — impeccably made, basic (as in really basic) clothes: jackets, sweaters, pants, jeans, a good old-fashioned tank of the Jockey/Hanes variety. Some were a little dressed up (fur jacket over sweater and trousers) and some, dressed down (leather jacket, shirt, jeans). For finale Vaccarello did an entire second collection for men and women, in decadent renderings of black with crystals.