MFW | Autumn Winter 2017 | Day 3
| Diesel Black Gold |
Andreas Melbostad got in on the Nineties revival for fall at Diesel Black Gold. The collection was anchored in a single silhouette, long and lean that exuded polished, urban grunge. The majority of the looks were built on a robust piece of outerwear, such as an aggressive shiny black leather shearling or Matrix-y leather trench, over a long skirt or dress and streamlined sneakers. The girls walked like they had somewhere to go in a hurry. Melbostad renewed utility-influenced denim and leather in taut proportions, as seen on a fitted denim top with jean pockets and a leather apron shirt. The long layers included slit front jean skirts, ribbed knits in drab colors and foulard print dresses that gave the lineup its most fluid, feminine edge.
| Emporio Armani |
A fresh breeze continues blow through to Emporio’s autumn/winter 2017 collection: many of the looks on the black mirrored runway in Milan, including Armani’s favoured black velvet trousers, were paired with (metallic) sneakers and flat shoes. The show notes dubbed that breeze a "restless, metropolitan spirit". One was certainly able to track a laid-back approach to luxe in the oversized fur jacket paired with a hoodie, the monochrome oversized slouchy sweater paired with cotton trousers, the little patent pouches dangling from belts. But there was a lot that was uptight too: cropped polka dot, alligator and plastic monochrome jackets worn over evening dresses felt a little stiff. The best looks channeled Armani's sense of occasion: a candy pink chiffon pleated dress looked snappy worn with a black bow at the neck and an expertly cut tuxedo; an abstract polka dot patterned dress with red velvet straps was on the right side of laissez-faire.
| Tod's |
THERE'S something about the look and suppleness of Tods whisper-weight leather that makes it seem far superior than any other. In some instances, such was its fluidity it didn't look like leather at all, but silk. From a khaki trench coat, to a short shirt dress the colour of Cadbury's milk chocolate; to a full skirt and shirt combo in camel, to a side slit black leather A-line skirt and even, a pair of cuffed white trousers.
| Marco De Vincenzo |
This is what the future looks like — on a couple of levels. Marco de Vincenzo stepped up this season, bringing his show to an impressive, much larger venue than in the past. The collection was actually about the future in a most original and plausible way. It wasn’t Space Age or digitally driven, it was thoughtful and expressive, pushing the everyday forward in a dreamlike way, which is how we actually get to the future.
| Versace |
Donatella Versace had something to say on the matter and her message on feminism came across loud and clear, literally she spelt it out. Words like loyalty, power, unity and courage were branded across knitted beanie hats, body-con athletic tops and even intricately embroidered into hemlines and tulle tops. "This is a collection about the power of women, and women who know how to use their power. It is a call for unity, and the strength that comes from positivity and hope." Donatella Versace
With an all-star line-up that welcomed back supermodel Amber Valetta, in addition to bombshell Gigi Hadid, Kendall Jenner, Natasha Poly, Anja Rubik, Adwoa Aboah and Behati Prinsloo, she played to her strengths tapping all the Versace signatures from fierce black tailoring, the definition of power dressing, to slinky metal mesh dresses to urban ‘skirted’ puffer jackets and artisanal laser-cut shaved mink coats inset with vivid flashes of fox. It was a wardrobe intended for the new generation; the hooded tops that accompanied several looks were especially significant: rumours are rife that this show is to be Donatella’s last, with Riccardo Tisci who just stepped down from Givenchy, tipped to take her place. Whatever the outcome, show-goers weren’t left in any doubt that when it comes to banging the drum on feminism, there can be no-one better to lead the march than Donatella.
| Vionnet |
New Guinea’s multicolor birds-of-paradise, all 39 species of which were first photographed in the wild in 2013, served as the inspiration for Goga Ashkenazi’s fall collection. For her first runway show at Milan Fashion Week. The birds’ flamboyant plumage echoed in the hints of bright colors, green, turquoise and fuchsia paired with neutrals on the sumptuous evening gowns that combined plissé chiffon with floating silk charmeuse panels.
Slip dresses, including a printed tulle style, were layered over lightweight turtleneck sweaters, while a draped silk gown embellished with flocked birds was cut from a pattern conceived by Madeleine Vionnet herself.
Although the collection was heavy on evening attire, daytime options included impeccable suiting, including a blazer with an incorporated capelet, as well as oversize shearling biker jackets infused with a cool, urban attitude. The collection exuded luxury and high-end craftsmanship, demonstrating that relocating the show to Milan, where the Vionnet atelier and headquarters are based, may have been a winning strategic move for the brand.