MFW | Autumn Winter 17 | Day 4
| Marchesa Notte |
Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig paid homage to imperial grandeur with decadent textures, as in metallic brocades, ornate guipure lace, 3-D floral appliqués, feathers and sequins. The duo gave their lineup a whiff of whimsy with bird, butterfly and star motifs, as a flirty attitude prevailed — ruffled one-shoulder cocktail dresses with peekaboo layers of polka-dotted tulle, or sexy corseted gowns with cutaway hemlines. A series of ethereal pleated looks in sheer chiffon and lace rounded out the collection with a softer romance.
| Marni |
Francesco Risso embraced the Marni standard of eccentricity with a bear hug for his first collection for the house. Risso tried to keep the momentum going by embracing eccentricity the label’s defining aesthetic with a bear hug, while setting his own direction. Unfortunately, the collection was largely drained of the homespun charm and quirky sophistication plied so effortlessly by Castiglioni. Also missing was clarity on several levels.
Backstage, Risso explained his approach in opaque terms.
“The title of the collection is Beings. Beings as women blooming, blooming and having thoughts as algorithms, where errors create rhythm, where they can be sealed in a second skin or protected in a balloon. So the multiplicity is something really important.”
| Trussardi |
Gaia Trussardi kept things clean and classic this season, concentrating on fine tailoring, and light touches of the house’s signature leather.
Hers came in blue-and-brown check, corduroy, iridescent copper velvet, chocolate suede, soft cinnamon leather with a laid-back Seventies feel, and chalk-stripe with a jacket cut like a peacoat. Trousers ranged from the wide and pooling to the cropped and flared, the latter showing off sleek leather boots. Leather pieces had that laid-back Trussardi glamour, as in one aviator-inspired brown shearling jacket with a crackled surface, a long chocolate suede bathrobe coat, and a short bomber style with knitted, striped waist and cuffs, done in the spirit of a tracksuit top.
| Dolce & Gabbana |
Dolce & Gabbana's show is almost as much fun as the show itself. With their painted faces and coiffed hair, they wear huge glittered heels and all the clothes of recent seasons past; a smorgasbord of polka dots, mosaic prints, rose prints, and leopard prints. And then there are those in an array of cocktail wear, wearing mini gold-sequinned and crystal party frocks with tulle petticoats and carrying embellished minaudières just as decorative, so too those who wear the drummer boy jackets festooned in jangling charms; you hear them coming before you actually see them. It's a riot. But not even that could compare to the triumphant show that Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana staged.
The show opened with husband and wife Amanda and Jason Harvey wearing cat printed silk bathrobes and carrying their babies, Rose and Noah. Diversity was celebrated as men and women of every size, age and colour took to the runway.
| Salvatore Ferragamo |
Fulvio Rigoni is sorting out his vision of Ferragamo as a resource for real clothes that are “dynamic, luxurious, comfortable, yet sensual,” as he said backstage. He took some of the colors, shapes and mood of twisted luxury from a Serge Lutens TV campaign for Jun Ropé from the Seventies. “His idea of beauty is very peculiar and kind of surreal, I translated it into very real.” Indeed, the shapes were very wearable with slim dresses, coats and skirts slit for movement and a fair amount of sportiness in some nice cropped puffer jackets and stirrup pants.
The show opened with a fitted, gray/beige leather blazer over a knit turtleneck in the same color and a lean skirt to the knee. The lean silhouette held steady, cycling through animal-print slip dresses with folded details, architectural high-waisted wrap skirts in brown, green and purple leather, and a finale of black tailoring and soft separates, such as a mohair organza tank over black pants.
| Au Jour Le Jour |
“It’s a contemporary princess,” said Diego Marquez during a backstage referring to the young woman he and Mirko Fontana portrayed for fall. The designer looked to Aesop’s classic fables as sources of inspiration for the cute collection, which marked a nice step in the brand’s process of maturation.
An enchanted forest inspired a botanical print splashed on an ankle-length fluid frock and on a languid silk pajama set worn with a faux Mongolian fur stole. The designers also played with textures by introducing a leopard jacquard coat, as well as a lacquered jacket with faux-fur details in an energetic orange tone. The well-executed collection was a coherent and focused effort targeting a wider range of customers than previous lineups.