MFW | Autumn Winter 17 | Day 1
| Victoria Victoria Beckham |
City hopper Victoria Beckham put her native London in the spotlight with a collection inspired by the streetscape, the cool kids, and the mercurial weather. “These are my foggy grays,” she said, happily pointing to a clutch of models wearing pieces that included pleat-front wide-leg trousers, a long double-face cashmere coat and a sleeveless funnel-neck sweater all in the shades of the typical London sky. There was nothing old-school, however, about this fresh, street and sport inspired collection. It was one of Beckham’s most confident yet, filled with a mix of snappy dresses, slouchy trousers and laid-back toppers.
| Gucci |
THE handbags at Gucci had tiny copies of Jane Austen novels in them. That sense of a Gucci item being a one-off; the notion that anything you buy is a treasure to be worn and loved long after you have purchased it; that it's future-proof, in the same way that vintage clothes are - that's why people will continue to buy and wear Michele's magical Gucci.
| Alberta Ferretti |
Alberta Ferretti took us on a side trip to Venice, complete with Grand Canal–print chiffon dresses, gondolier stripes on everything from sweaters to an astrakhan jacket, velvets embroidered with the Piazza San Marco’s famous lion, and hooded capes and masks out of Carnival via Eyes Wide Shut. This collection of Ferretti’s owes a debt to Michele’s Gucci; the flower corsages, tiers of ruffles, and gilded lions looked familiar. Ferretti sent out the models in black days-of-the-week sweaters.
| No. 21 |
Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s versions were a sight for sore eyes in his fall No. 21 collection. He did a great job capturing retro Fifties romance in silhouettes that felt current day, such as the simplified sheer red dress with a ruffled neckline and jeweled brooch at the waistline that opened the show, and men’s plaid tailoring cut into cropped pants and boxy jackets, a full skirt lined in Neoprene to give it a nice sculptural swing. His collection was loaded with varsity jackets and sweaters, romanced, feminized and elevated in shearling and thick leather, with jeweled buttons, done in a black floral print, or shown as a cropped knit jacket with one embroidered satin sleeve.
| Fausto Puglisi |
Fausto Puglisi is Italian. He likes to mix in odes to Miami and New York and other places through his collections, but at their core they’re always designed to represent his motherland. For fall Puglisi’s aesthetic are aggressively gilded leather bomber jacket, printed T-shirt, butch boots and directs her court of Puglisi-clad minions to change her into a rich, regal red brocade dress robe, slippers and intense jewelry. There was plenty of the overly ornate stuff, including oversize bombers in quilted velvet and jeweled embroidery and a gown with a skirt slit in panels up to the hips with a medallion-embroidered cap.
| Francesco Scognamiglio |
Butterflies were the inspiration for Francesco Scognamiglio fall collection. The delicate creatures were evoked not only with multicolor prints splashed on mini dresses and silk blouses, but also with laser cuts on velvet dresses and pencil skirts as well as in the lightness and dynamism he injected into the lineup. Ruffles added movement to mini organza dresses, while breezy asymmetric tulle styles were worked in maxi polka dots. The designer also delivered opulent kidassia fur coats, which balanced the sartorial appeal of draped coats with collars punctuated by studs. The evening gowns celebrated a hyper-sensual femininity with sheer fabrics, skin-tight silhouettes and embellishments accentuating the curves of a woman’s body.