LFW | Autumn Winter 17 | Day 2
| Fashion DNA Pakistan |
Fashion DNA: Pakistan showcased a selection of the nation’s most talented designers, who all injected elements of the country’s rich and colourful culture into their collections.
Jeem created gowns fit for a princess; a beautiful royal blue cape adorned with an embroidered exotic bird wowed the audience. Oriental touches of beaded floral embroidery were applied to teal and other jewel tones. One stand-out piece was a stunning one-sleeved emerald green velvet dress with a sweeping skirt.
Sonya Battla took a softer approach, choosing a colour palette of cream and royal blue. The duo were the basis for light and airy kaftans, tie-dye trousers and gypsy dresses, all with relaxed shapes.
Zuria Dor created a number of ice blue gowns reminiscent of Dior but which still drew inspiration from the decadence of Pakistan. Tulle skirts gave the collection a fairytale feel, whilst the shoulders of a deepened blue dress were clasped by heavy crystal silver embellishment.
Pinktree Company evoked traditional Pakistani dress elements; gigantic gold nose rings attached to an earring through chains, whilst a fuchsia duster coat with gold embellishment swished as the model moved.
| Chalayan |
Returning to the London schedule after 16 years of showing in Paris, Hussein Chalayan said he wanted to convey a sense of “protest and celebration”.
His finale said it all: The looks were inset with papery panels at the bodice, which models tore off to reveal a cascade of feathers or glittery streamers.
“There’s a kind of aggression in that you need to tear them, but the things that come out are quite charming"
| JW Anderson |
Just like London, with its perpetually torn-up streets and a skyline studded with cranes, J.W. Anderson’s collection was one big work in progress, at least that’s how he saw it. Anderson’s materials may have been softer and sexier than the average builder’s, feathers and chain mail among them, but the idea remains the same. London doesn’t stand still for a minute, and neither does Jonathan Anderson. He’s moved from a signature men’s collection that was all colored patches of macramé, chunky knits and cocooning shapes to a women’s lineup of light and fluttery silhouettes, tucked here and slashed there.
“You have this idea of something that is uber feminine, but at the same time it can crash, and then it kind of builds itself up again. It’s this idea of stripping it right back to an outline silhouette — something very reduced — and then you start to build it up again,” - JW Anderson
| Emilia Wickstead |
There are certainly royal airs and graces to Emilia Wickstead designs, and it makes perfect sense that she was among the first to embrace the Elizabethan- and Tudor-inspired trend that has blown up in the past couple of seasons. You could trace the billowy princess-worthy statement sleeves on the runway today, from the easy print-on-floral-print blouses for day right through to the more dramatic velvet evening dresses.
Wickstead has been broadening her range of late, and her new collection goes beyond cocktail hour to encompass the casual polish of a sophisticated off-duty wardrobe. She introduced jeans to her line this season, and the high-waisted, raw denim pants had a pristine, tailored finish that worked well in the lineup of floor-sweeping gowns. Wickstead has been loosening up the demure look of her brand overall, and the use of gauzy cottons and diaphanous silks lent a sense of lightness to the clothes.
| Simone Rocha |
“Women Fashion Power” was a Zaha Hadid-designed show at London’s Design Museum a few years ago and it could easily have been the title of Simone Rocha’sfall collection. Rocha has built her business on statement clothing, but in the past those designs have tended toward the ethereal.
This season, she dialed down the dreaminess and marched into new territory with a lineup of military-inspired clothing and voluminous faux furs, protective clothing for challenging times. Even Rocha’s flowers, chunky crochet leather appliqués on coats or colored embroidery on sheer tulle and organza dresses — served a practical, as well as a decorative, purpose.
“It was my version of camouflage — all that deep floral foliage coming together, and then almost becoming this tapestry, this idea of protection,” - Simone Rocha
| House Of Holland |
Henry Holland presented Gingham dresses in red, purple, and orange were done in tiers of ruffles, while a drop-waist, floral slipdress had skirts in flounces of black tulle. And there were plenty of florals, which had a wild, folksy appeal. An off-the-shoulder dress was fashioned from white guipure lace embroidered with red poppies, while a dark floral print of chrysanthemums and forget-me-nots bloomed on everything from hoodies to flippy dresses. To keep the look modern, Holland also wove in streetwise elements, namely huge hoop earrings, fishnet tank tops and tracksuits. It was a charming collection, with plenty of approachable pieces amid the expressive styling.
| Gareth Pugh |
Gareth Pugh is not happy with the state of the world, and his collection riffed on anarchy, extremism, intolerance, bigotry and global political chaos. Inspired by Liliana Cavani’s cult 1974 film “The Night Porter,” Pugh sent out a cast of lethal heroines who elegantly wore architectural clothes to face what the designer described as the world’s “toxic masculinity.” There was a toughness in the sharply tailored lines of double-breasted coats and a fluid leather trench.
| Versus Versace |
Versace’s rebellious, rocky little sister VERSUS closed day 2 with a sexed up, youth-charged assortment of slinky, shimmery mini-dresses, colour-popping puffer jackets and signature leather, which instantly inspired you to dress up and party all night. Bella and Gigi Hadid opened and closed the show respectively. Slit-skirts and midriff-flashing knitwear set the tone for a fierce collection that mixed sportswear-inspired pieces with figure-hugging, club-friendly eveningwear. The predominantly black catwalk was interrupted by vibrant furry jumpers and puffer jackets in raver hues of pink and blue neon, alongside futuristic metallic.