NYFW | Autumn Winter 17 | Day 6
| Michael Kors |
The reality of the Trump presidency has hit fashion hard. Many designers have said, going into the fall season, their disquiet about the administration and fears for the country impacted their design process, though few have articulated exactly how. Kors presented his singular motivation, no amusing bon mots referencing the Hollywood sirens he loves, no quips about Aspen or private jets. Even his casting bore a subtle difference. Typically, he enlists models across generations, and Carolyn Murphy, Amber Valletta and Isabeli Fontana walked along with the younger set and a surprise newcomer to the Kors ranks, the voluptuous Ashley Graham, who flaunted her curves in ribbed knit dress under a short fur jacket. She rocked.
| Anna Sui |
“There’s touches of those women in the collection but also elements of decor. It was almost like building an interior, piling textures on top of each other.” - Anna Sui.
And pile them on she did. The collection showcased decadent, jewel-toned fabrics, crushed and panne velvet; satin devore; chinoiserie-printed jacquard trimmed with fur, fringe, lace and beading. Her all-star model cast rocked the runway in velvet tracksuits with metallic side-stripes for day and ruffled dresses under lush fox fur coats for night. There was a gothic, Victorian romance woven throughout, with Elizabethan lace ruffs and cuffs festooning some looks, and a dose of humor, with kitten and bunny brooches done by Erickson Beamon. Fall will look pretty funky if Sui has anything to do with it.
| Marchesa |
Imperial China set the mood for Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig this season. Chapman said they ultimately aimed to draw from the empire’s grand opulence while fusing it with Marchesa’s soft, sensual romance. “We mixed in new color stories that we haven’t done before,” - Craig
The show’s opening gown, a cap-sleeve, black Chantilly lace column covered in floral embroidery with a long skirt made from rainbow tassel fringe. A more delicate version trotted down the runway soon after, this one with a sheer, plunging neckline bodice and long, romantic sleeves with the same rainbow fringe used as trim. A strapless chartreuse gown in silk mikado with floral-patterned bugle beading at the bust certainly captured Shanghai glamour.
| Bibhu Mohapatra |
Bibhu Mohapatra’s brand of glamour is at its best kept simple. Stark looks like an easy black velvet jacket and pants with a cashmere turtleneck or a wine silk-velvet column gown were great examples of this. Speaking of the currently ubiquitous velvets, which have been highlighting many a fall collection, Mohapatra used it sparingly, sometimes mixing it with burnt satin organza for a top over a barathea skirt. There was plenty of color here, on solids, blocks and prints. A color-blocked crepe pleated dress in wine and rust with black side insets was luxuriously paired with a natural Russian sable duster. The designer was more flirtatious than overtly sexy. The real winner here was the calf-length, off-the-shoulder sheath in a scale-embroidered organza. Stunning, sensually cut and simple.