NYFW | Autumn Winter 17 | Day 4
| J Crew |
J Crew presented a "mix of old school and new school" is how women's wear designer Somsack Sikhounmuong explained his approach. Traditional fabrics, motifs and silhouettes were revisited to create contemporary clothes suited to a realistic urban wardrobe. There was something quintessentially American-preppy in a look featuring a rugby shirt worn with a wool jacket and a satin flared skirt. A tuxedo jacket worn over a strapless jumpsuit was a chic-and-sleek evening option.
| Diane Von Furstenberg |
Jonathan Saunders showed his sophomore collection for Diane von Furstenberg.
“It’s about an eclectic mix of materials, clashing colors and a sense of ease.”
The DVF girl has long been a proponent of flamboyant reality, an optimist who believed in the transformative powers of fashion. For fall, Saunders gave her plenty to love in bold, graphic clashes of color, patterns and sometimes, materials — silk twill prints with paillettes with fur, all worn in fanciful collaged assemblages. While his patterns derived from a range of sources, Saunders said his primary inspirations were African and Japanese, giving the collection an element of exotica.
| Victoria Beckham |
Victoria Beckham didn’t make any loud political pronouncements with her fall runway show, a beautifully smart lineup of tailoring, softness and a modest celebration of the female form, but she wanted it to be known that she’d been thinking about the state of the world while designing.
“I look at what’s happening in the world, and for me, it was not about show pieces. It was about offering my woman really beautiful clothes…. The truth is, there has never been a time when it’s been more relevant to empower women.” - Victoria Beckham
| Public School |
Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne struck a cord of genuine emotion in a collection of smart, interesting fashion shown within the context of a broader message.
Well before the presidential election, the two established themselves as politically minded designers eager to use the runway as a platform for their views along with their clothes. Here, their inspiration, or perhaps, more accurately, their creative motivation, was a consideration of borders. “We just started talking about these man-made constructs to keep people from each other, at the same time envisioning this world where if you’re a human being, you are a citizen of the world,” Chow.
| Prabal Gurung |
Prabal Gurung celebrates women diversity and their power by sending down the runway of cast of differently sized models from different nationalities and ethnic background. To further his inclusivity message, he translates it into a hymn infused with a militant and combative energy and designs a series of looks consisting of T-shirts printed with feminist slogans, a statement that has become very current and relevant among fashion designers
| Jenny Packham |
“What does it mean to be British?” That was the thought process behind Jenny Packham’s fall collection, which was inspired by the idiosyncrasies and clichés that define British identity. In a mish-mash of all things British, Packham worked punk tartan plaids in everything from an embellished cocktail dress to an airy ballgown skirt. The homage to royalty consisted of plenty of pearl necklaces that topped off many looks as well as a pearl motif T-shirt that was named. For those who look to Packham for her signature red carpet stunners, she still had plenty of intricate embroidered gowns to offer. Overall, this was one of Packham’s most youthful and fun collections.