NYFW | Autumn Winter 17 | Day 3
| Ryan Roche |
Ryan Roche stepped up to the runway for the first time for fall. She kept the show very small, a single row of seats on either side of the runway, humble stripe of white carpet. An aesthetic like hers, quiet and gentle, could easily be drowned out by a big production. Roche is a knitwear aficionado, her stitchwork is almost flawless. She gave her hushed silhouettes - dancerly slips, body-skimming gowns and sweaters, power by working in tonal, head-to-toe colour, like white red, nude and black. Emphasising the shoulders on dresses and blazers, accessorising them with neck scarves, opened up the look to a mild late seventies / eighties vibe.
| Dion Lee |
Dion Lee has always been known as a master purveyor of sexy, sculpted bodycon silhouettes. Lee aims to bring forth a more diverse character of the brand, one that conveyed attitudes of strength and toughness while retaining an air of femininity. Fusing military and sport references, Lee's neutral-tone lineup, with pops of orange, cobalt and hunter green. Containing structured separates and suiting punctuated by a few pieces that leaned fluid and feminine.
| Lacoste |
Felipe Oliveira Baptista took Lacoste on a cosmic voyage for fall as he delved into the life of founder René Lacoste, who joined the aircraft industry following his tennis career and eventually founded the company Air Equipment. Working nineties street and grunge vibe through his women's looks. He also mixed classic and technical fabrics, as in the black-leather trench accented with colourful patches of nylon that opened the show or the patchwork leather flight suit that followed.
| Christian Siriano |
The democratisation of luxury is becoming a recurring theme in fashion, and with his latest collection, Christian Siriano aimed to push the idea one step further. Mixing affordable collaborations with mall brands and limited-edition pieces with proceeds donated to the ACLU.
Combining accessibility with luxury has become one of Siriano’s signatures, but this season the focus skewed toward the sumptuous. Gowns were covered in artfully embroidered cranes or layers of fringe and marabou to create looks that ranged from showgirl to simply showy.
| Jonathan Simkhai |
In unsteady times like these, escapism can be an overindulgent tool. Coping with current politics is one thing, it's important not to drift too far off into peaceful daydreams or nonexistent promised lands. This season Jonathan Simkhai was dealing with the power of imagination and the power of persistence all at once. His newly festooned garments for Fall were inspired by the regal romance of old-world Spain and its glistening aristocracy as well as its impactful architecture.
Simkhai showed a few of those key looks, but much of it felt over embellished, even if it was his attempt to inject some nuance into the successful brand. His Fall lineup was pretty to look at and it was certainly fun to get lost in the sparkle, but Simkhai is already so adept at making women feel empowered that any extra frill, or a trip back to 19th-century Spain, isn’t really needed.
| Alexander Wang |
The invites to one of the most anticipated shows of New York Fashion Week came on in the form of a crumpled eviction-type notice with blaring red caps: “NO AFTER PARTY.” Alexander Wang’s collection wasn’t anything particularly revolutionary from the designer. The immersive runway experience was enough to briefly take away from the fact that a “statement” plain black t-shirt and leggings came down the runway. Regardless of the confusion he put people through, in the end, Wang won. People were talking about the show, and they'll be talking for a while.