Zac Posen | LFW SS 17

Zac Posen | LFW SS 17

With his spring effort, Zac Posen tried to deliver a feminine version of an “Easy Rider”-inspired look. The classic moto jacket served as the starting point for many of the pieces — re-proportioned and re-constructed, it gave shape to waisted jackets cut with round shoulders. Posen paired these with shorts, skirts and motorcycle pants, all worked in a range of fabrics, from rich brocade to bonded cotton.

From this slightly masculine group, he veered toward more quintessentially feminine looks, including an array of cocktail dresses crafted from colorful brocades. The narrow waists and sculpted bustier bodices on many of his gowns blossomed into voluminous skirts that were almost theatrical. While risky, unconventional combinations sometimes look captivating, the result here was not so ideal. The evening looks, which were surely impeccably crafted and decorated, appeared stiff and uncomfortable — and too heavy for a spring collection. An elaboration on a couple of fresh and lovely cotton styles, a lilac shirtdress with cutouts and a pink wrap frock, might have brought him better balance and a more desirable offering overall.
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Paul Smith | LFW SS 17

Paul Smith | LFW SS 17

MM6 Maison Margiela | LFW SS 17

MM6 Maison Margiela | LFW SS 17