McQ | LFW SS 17
Sarah Burton referenced a pair of dark heroines for spring. First, there was Lydia Lunch, the New York No Wave punk legend, singer, poet and artist who rose to fame in the Eighties; and then the controversial Irina Ionesco, a French photographer whose erotic, Twenties-style portraits of women gained attention in the Seventies. Both women have explored female empowerment and sexuality in their work, which came through this season in McQ’s fetishistic touches, such as leather motorcycle jackets and miniskirts with grommeted, peekaboo lace-up detailing.
Burton’s lineup explored the tension between girlishness and grunge, sexuality and innocence. For example: A black T-shirt bearing the words “SHE-DEVIL” — a nod to Lunch — was finished with romantic silk georgette sleeves. A few of her chiffon and lace slip-dresses and blouses, obviously sexy in their transparency, were cut in demure, high-neck silhouettes. Romantic floral-printed and polka-dot dresses — and a seriously covetable purple suede jacket with embroidery at the collar — gave the sinister, rebellious lineup a welcome shock of color.