Huishan Zhang | LFW SS 17

Huishan Zhang | LFW SS 17

For a designer who’s known for his ultra delicate, pretty creations, there was a distinct edge to Huishan Zhang’s lineup this season — one that brought an appealing new dimension to his work.

The designer printed fragments of poetry in his show notes, among them lines by Maya Angelou drawn from her 1978 poem “Phenomenal Woman.” And this strong, female spirit clearly influenced Zhang, who showed his collection against the gilded backdrop of London’s St. Andrew’s Church, a 17th-century Sir Christopher Wren building.

Zhang studded silk shift dresses and satin skirts with silver rivets, while even the crystal and sequin flowers that he appliquéd onto a sweet, A-line cocktail dress had a spiky quality. Zhang’s signature lace was still there, but this time it appeared more graphic — white lace panels covered one button-down, calf-length denim sundress, while an ankle-length lace coat was cut with clean lines, evoking a Sixties silhouette.
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House Of Holland | LFW SS 17

House Of Holland | LFW SS 17

Gareth Pugh | LFW SS 17

Gareth Pugh | LFW SS 17