Coach | NYFW SS 2017
If Stuart Vevers’ fall 2016 girl was “back-to-school,” his spring 2017 girl was back to cool — or perhaps, reform school. In his most aggressive outing for the brand, Coach 1941’s executive creative director loaded everything onto his runway, including piles of junkyard cars atop gritty gravel, and onto his looks: Vests, jackets, shoes and bags were encrusted with studs of all shapes and sizes and bits of hardware done to the nth degree.
It was an homage to the season’s muse, Elvis Presley (the brand secured rights from the singer’s estate for the image that will grace T-shirts and sweatshirts, which along with select shoes and bags, comprise Coach’s see-now-buy-now offerings), with a whole lotta grunge going on. And Vevers didn’t forget Priscilla. In an exclusive preview, he spoke of a “Southern rose with a homespun feel.” As Vevers put it: “The Coach gang of girls are rabid Elvis fans.”
Taking it all in from the row was Presley’s granddaughter, Riley Keough, along with grunge rocker Courtney Love and actresses Winona Ryder and Chloë Grace Moretz.
Vevers kept the strong dress momentum of last spring going, here taking a genteel approach to what he called “Sunday-best dresses,” but come undone. He showed sweet rose and floral prints in cottons, silk organzas and chiffons adorned with lace and rickrack that had the look of being taken apart and pieced back together. A cotton cabbage-rose print dress was sewn purposely unbuttoned in the back to reveal a black mesh “T-shirt.”
Dresses were often worked in both leather and chiffon, the latter inset on the bodice or at the hemline, while others were shown sheer with floral boy shorts underneath. Long fringed leather “aprons” were layered over chiffon dresses in a nod to the house’s heritage. When viewed close-up, the lineup revealed an extensive amount of handiwork with all the piecing, patching and embellishing.
Vevers also snuck in references to Santa Fe, New Mexico, incorporating Southwestern details. A large fringed and studded car coat is sure to be a classic, while a deconstructed biker jacket and poncho hybrid may have gone a step too far.
The looks were all paired with over-the-top creeper-style mocs, and a smaller version of the Dinky bag, loaded with hardware, could have doubled as a weapon. Vevers said he loves the idea of a good mash-up, but at times the overall look here was a lot to take in. Fittingly, it was “all shook up.”