Carolina Herrera | NYFW SS 2017
Carolina Herrera has been spending a lot of time in the archives of late. So her SS17 collection was in part a debt to her inaugural 1981 collection and an age of strappy taffeta gowns, silvery brocade ball dresses, bomber jackets and denim.
The more voluminous details of that era was somewhat less exuberant here, but the slicked back hair and scarlet lips announced a clean collection of bold graphic monochromes and sculptural tailoring that recalled the glory years of yuppie excess, tempered with a softer millennial sensibility. A silver brocade gown swept along the marble floors of the Frick museum, which Herrera has adopted as her fashion home in New York for the past three season. It has a bold silhouette with an origami like shoulder detail, but the fabric was a "pouf" of metallic according to the designer.
The beloved eighties designer, was elegant used on ballgown. Herrera has revisited also the gingham shirts she used to wear backstage and refashioned it in eveningwear. Her clothes are always immaculate, but for SS17, she brought a welcome edge to the collection. There was a sporty feel to the aesthetic, which lent it more currency. And the "pouffy" fabrics lent it a youthful vigour.
Thirty five years young. She's looking good for her age.