Sabyasachi | Lakmé Fashion Week A/W 2016
Sabyasachi Grand Finale was a perfect combination of glitter and grandeur.
After Carol Gracias broke the stereotypes by beautifully flaunting her baby bump, this season Lakmé Fashion Week came to a smashing close with the to-be-mum Kareena Kapoor Khan looking resplendent as Sabyasachi Mukherjee's showstopper. Rich, regal and exquisite, as Sabyasachi's designs usually are, his bridal wear collection this time will definitely be on every brides must-have list.
Rich, regal and exquisite, as Sabyasachi's designs usually are, his bridal wear collection this time will definitely be on every bride's must-have list. From deep reds, golden hand-embroidered ensembles to balancing off the heavy richness with ethereal sheer and hints of starry glitter, the collection was breathtaking.
The collection featured heavily embroidered anarkalis, suits, sarees, cocktail dresses and of course lehengas, which the colour palette had all the usuals - red, golds, blues, greens and even the statement black. The heavy and rich velvet, was wondering offset with the light sheer nets of the lehengas and sarees. Zardozi, Parsi work, Baroque crystals, Kashmiri tilla work, faux fur are some of the elements the dominate the collection.
Sabyasachi's grand finale show was titled 'Illuminate', and that showed right from the stage setting to the clothes. The designer said his clothes have always been about "nostalgia", and this show was no exception. With jhumars lighting up the stage for the gala and exquisite heavy jewellery, the feel felt just right.
If royalty and grandeur was the order of the show, the new uber cool look too left everyone transfixed. The floral silk dhoti pants accompanied by shimmer-faux fur cracked the deal. To add to the look, the aviator glasses and embroidered mojris just explained what he meant by midlife crisis".
Sabyasachi stood by his signature patterns, but also ventured into the arena of Western wear, mixing it with the theme of Indian embroidery. His long A-line tent dresses always awed the audience.
The designer tells us what to expect from his grand finale show titled ‘Illuminate’
The master couturier and grand finale designer at LFW Winter Festive 2016 talks about his Lakmé’s Illuminate collection, working with shimmer and what people should expect from the collection.
What was the starting point of the collection?
“The make-up was the starting point. It’s the hero of the show, as it is with all ofLakmé’s grand finales. We were planning to do a line about beautiful shimmer anyway. Then when Purnima Lamba, head of innvations at Lakmé, asked if I wanted to do the grand finale and told me their theme was ‘shimmer’, under the Illuminate story, I instantly agreed. So it worked out to be quite in sync.”
What is the colour palette for the collection?
“We’re defining a colour palette which is woven around the theme of the make-up — which is a lot of dusty, smoky, shimmery metallics along with strong contrasting jewel tones, like a deep emerald, a rich oxblood, a coffee maroon among others.”
Since the Sabyasachi beauty looks, so far, have always been quite muted or pared back, what is your take on ‘Illuminate’?
“As a designer I don’t offer myself any limitations. What one needs to do is redefine oneself under the same school of thought. So you’ll see shimmer done in a very Sabyasachi way. I like a little study in contrast and when there is the element of an oxymoron involved. If you look at the way shimmer is usually used, a very conservative women would probably wear shimmery make-up with matte clothes and a reckless woman would wear shimmer with shimmer. And in this show, we have done both.”
What can people expect in terms of look and feel of the clothes?
“People say that a writer only writes one big story in his life and the rest of the stories he chooses to write in his lifetime are always a derivative of that one original school of thought. You’ll see the same applying here. Our clothes have always been about nostalgia, so that feeling will be there in this show as well. For me it’s going to be same-old-same-old. But for a lot of people, this collection will be visually different because our silhouettes now vary from super racy to super short to super long. So it might raise a few eyebrows, with people thinking Sabyasachi is going through a midlife crisis!”
What are your favourite pieces from the collection?
"The two pieces we have used in the campaign were the starting points of the show - one is the shimmer on shimmer look and the other is a matte and shimmer combination. I like the long, embroidered velvet coats and I love the super-short dresses. We've also done a series called India Baroque, which is about little shift dresses and A-line tent dresses which are all super lavishly embroidered and meant to be worn completely pared down."