3.1 Phillip Lim | NYFW SS 2017

3.1 Phillip Lim | NYFW SS 2017

Phillip Lim channeled kinder, gentler times from the Fifties and Victorian era elements in his neo-retro spring collection. This is his "reaction to what is going on right now in our culture - it just felt right." - Phillip Lim

Helping set the mood was his muse, Patsy Cline, on the soundtrack, perfectly in tune with Lim's slightly retro but thoroughly modern collection. Models on his square, dirt-covered runway strewn with flowers - a continuation of the floral pattern on the clothes. Calling the look a "new playful austerity," Lim channeled the sweeter, gentler times of the Victorian era and Fifties. He added accents such as ruffle edges and zipper details on overalls and slinky dresses, for example, the latter giving the pieces the tough edge Lim is known for.

Lim's outerwear has always been a strong suit, especially indoor - outdoor toppers, and he open with a maxi-length white vest over a floral bra and miniskirt, which reappeared later in the lineup in other colours. The juxtaposition of his two inspirations was most evident in two looks: a high-neck floral ruffle dress and a black leather bra paired with python play shorts. Soft pale pink satin was worked as a bowling shirt and simple jeans, and as a bomber over the bralette and play shorts.

Tough austerity was seen in leather jackets, another staple from Lim, and graphic interest in a black and white linen jumper and a group of sleek knits. While the collection didn't focus on Lim's more technically creative designs, it didn't show his more feminine side, which he grounded with heavily studded platform sandals and bags, including the new Dolly bag (named for Ms. Parton).

"This is real rock 'n' roll. This is honky-tonk, badass rock 'n' roll."
- Phillip Lim
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Alexander Wang | NYFW SS 2017

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Altuzarra | NYFW SS 2017

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