Sabyasachi • 2016 Brides To Be
Brides-To-Be - Sabyasachi's latest collection is all you've ever dreamed of
As you all may know Sabyasachi was absent from the India Couture Week's calendar. Of course when you are one of the country's leading couturiers, you can't get away without showing on the runway, not having a showstopper and still being able to gather an audience.
Some of the more popular elements in bridal couture in India today - the long fitted sleeves, high round embellished necklines, vintage florals (and it's many iterations) and lush red lehengas that brides wear - are signatures borrowed from Sabyasachi's rulebook. Anyone trying their hand at these is just making a variation of his style.
The designer's theme for Couture 2016 was 'Firdaus', which translates to the highest garden in paradise, and in Sabyasachi rendition, most of the ingredients in the garden have travelled from as far as Burma, Ghana and Turkey. The music at the show was recorded in Kolkata and curated by Sabyasachi Culture Foundation, the aim of which is to scout and work with local talents.
Forty-seven artisans and three fine artists worked on the making of a single coat for over 1,600 hours. There were dip-dyed brocades, vegetable-dyed silk floss, velvet couching, brass sequins and much more handwork than is visible to the untrained eye - homogenised to fall in place for the making of a 'modern day heirloom'.
Sabyasachi's design language stems from old-world Kolkata where traces of colonial India are as omnipresent as the 3G service on your phone. The polarity between the two might seem like a far stretch, but truth of the matter is that the two co-exist because the grandeur from an era one finds itself as romanticised today as it was a few decades ago. And because we are a generation that suffers from separation anxiety when not with our phones, Sabyasachi has found a way to make these tales of lost time still find their way to our imagination, making him the smartest businessman of all.