Rahul Mishra ICW 2016
Rahul Mishra • India Couture Week • 2016
His monsoon inspired bridal couture may be his dreamist collection yet.
Rahul Mishra doesn't speak of a muse or his notion of an ideal woman when he refers to his clothes. The collection is not only a fantastical construction that lends its power to make you look extraordinary on a special day; but also rather, it helps you catch hold of a beauty that is hard to describe but shines a light of its own.
'The Monsoon Diaries'
"I wanted to capture the essence of the wanton growth in the rains. Everything blooms under the showers but the forms and shapes that you see in nature are wild, untamed - we didn't to focus on exacting motifs, just an idea of the same." - Rahul Mishra
The collection flowed from powder blues, to navy, a fresh hint of mint soft pinks and then the whites. "I wanted it to look like splashes of watercolor on paper" - RM
Vintage botanical illustrations were also cited as references. What gets hidden behind the designer's harmonious compositions is just how much he understands line and proportion and how in each ensemble the two are balanced in every small panel.
Shine is not an element seen in Rahul Mishra's work, but the couture runway calls for some sparkle and the designer obliged with a mix of gold threadwork, badla and sequins with the controlled hand of someone not wanting to deviate from his aesthetics.
Rahul Mishra drew an audience not just in numbers - senior designer Manish Malhotra, Ritu Kumar, Anju Modi and Rakesh Thakore were also present to watch the show. After all, Rahul Mishra not only shows in Paris regularly but also runs an enviable sustainable model of production that looks after his entire manufacturing. This collection took craftsman (karigars) over four months to work on. Generating more employment is always a conscious effort on the designers part.
|1| What is the inspiration behind your 'Monsoon Diaries' Couture Collection?
The collection is inspired by German biologist and artist Ernst Hackel's work (Art Forms of Nature, 1899).
|2| What are some of the techniques that went into making of the clothes?
The season we explored the enchanting weaves of maheshwari and delved deep into experimenting with silk and cotton in varying degrees to weave a story of our strong cultural heritage. We created colour tonalities using different kinds of silk, muga silk being one of them, to create a silk fabric that is capable of bearing the weight of heavy, intricate embroidery. The usage of organic khadi and handmade silk organza helped us lend an earthiness to the pieces.
This season marks a very conscious step we have taken towards bridal couture and hence embroidery has played a key role in contributing to the story of monsoon. Metal yarns and zardozi helped add three dimensionality to the visuals. Resham yarns dyed in vibrant hues painstakingly set on a subdued background add another dimension to the theme of monsoon diaries.
|3| Has this collection been created with sustainable practices?
Yes. For this collection we have used hand woven textiles and the collection is completely handmade.
|4| A piece that you would recommend from the collection?
The peacock lehenga.