Dolce & Gabbana | MFW SS 17
As the lights dimmed again and the music changed from the entirety of Justin Bieber's "Purpose" to upbeat Italian Tarantella music, we expected the standard procession of models in colorful outfits. But instead, a group of Neapolitan dancers in street clothes ran out from the audience onto the runway and started breakdancing. The phones came out, the Snapchats and Instagram stories were shared and eventually, the dancers were replaced by models — Hailey Baldwin included.
Despite the fruit, the collection itself just didn't seem all that tropical (and the breakdancers didn't quite fit into that theme either, as far as we could tell): The show notes offered something of an explanation: The Tropico Italiano isn't a real thing that exists, but rather "an imaginary line that marks the territory which stretches from Naples to Sicily," meaning locals might get some of the symbols Dolce & Gabbana used to reference that region, but to us, the marching band jackets, folkloric crowns, LED shoes and pizza, pasta, cocktail and ice cream motifs felt a little random — though they did make for a cheerful visual feast as they came down the runway, and what more do you want from a Dolce & Gabbana show?
As designers the world over rethink when, where and how they present their collections, Dolce & Gabbana said they wanted to adopt "a more personal approach to the design process which is not influenced by seasonal rules or codes," per the show notes. "There are no longer rules in fashion, but what matters is to remain true to yourself." That ethos seemed to be reflected in the haphazard styling seen with many looks: heavily embroidered marching band jackets paired with feminine skirts, and ankle-length jacket covered in sequins paired with jeans, an athletic jersey and shorts worn with heels; and speaking of footwear, many models wore embroidered "hotel" slippers. It was as if whomever styled this show had the attention span of, well, a millennial. Also fitting this theme were the many rule breakers in the front row: young people who (thanks to privilege, in many of their cases), are carving their own paths in life, whether by creating cool content, modeling, making music or all of the above.