Arthur Arbesser | MFW SS 17
Arthur Arbesser showed his spring collection in old Austrian stables that were recently restored by architect Luca Cipelletti, a friend and frequent collaborator. The move was designed to highlight the lineup equestrian theme — but Ralph Lauren this wasn’t.
The designer tapped influences as wide-ranging as his Austrian ancestors and the colorful uniforms worn by riders in the Palio di Siena, the medieval horse race that opposes riders from the Italian city’s 17 districts. He paired boldly striped technical knits with lace-up patent leather booties, and oversized shirt dresses had horizontal panels of jockey silk spliced in.
“The idea was to make it all ironic and twisted and make it sort of funky,” Arbesser explained backstage. That playful touch was evident in the bold red Swarovski crystal arrows on the bodice of a fluttery pale blue slip dress — a pattern echoed throughout and in the oversized earrings designed by Ilenia Corti.